Identifying Genuine Vs. Fake Shoe Upper Materials
Apr 27, 2025
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Soft touch, breathable to dissipate moisture and absorb air, elasticity and flexibility, lightweight, wear-resistant, water-resistant, as well as easy to process and colorfast.
1. Natural Leather / Genuine Leather
Natural leather comes in various types, with cowhide being the most common, and smaller amounts of sheepskin, pigs' leather, etc. Over 80% of the materials used for shoe uppers are made of cowhide. Generally, natural leather is soft, breathable, warm, fold-resistant, and durable.
Top-grain leather is also known as grain leather, which has a surface texture with natural scars and blood vessels. It is made from dense, thin leather layers and tightly packed fibers, making it strong, elastic, breathable, and highly moldable.
, or second-layer leather, is obtained by splitting the hide with a machine. It has looser fiber structure, and it is treated with chemicals, coated with PVC or PU film. It retains some elasticity and moldability but has lower strength.
, or nubuck, has the original skin texture with hair, giving it a rough surface. It's breathable, soft to the touch, and comfortable to wear, but tends to get dirty and is harder to maintain. Suede can be dyed in various colors, but care should be taken when combining it with contrasting materials, as color transfer may occur.
2. Synthetic Leather
Made from textile or non-woven fabric bases, synthetic leather is created by applying various formulations of PVC, PU, etc., through foaming or lamination processes. It comes in a variety of patterns, colors, gloss, and textures. Synthetic leather is water-resistant, cost-effective, and easy to maintain, but it has lower durability compared to genuine leather.
3. Mesh Fabric
Mesh is often used for areas of the shoe that require ventilation. It's lightweight, breathable, flexible, and comfortable to wear, but does not provide insulation. It is ideal for running shoes, training shoes, and other athletic footwear.
4. Foam
Foam is elastic, lightweight, and offers excellent rebound and flexibility. It is commonly used in the collar, heel, and tongue areas to enhance comfort. Some shoes also use 2mm foam in the inner lining to improve both comfort and breathability, as well as provide structure. However, foam is not suitable for exposed areas due to its poor abrasion resistance, and is typically bonded with other materials.
5. TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane)
TPU is a rigid yet flexible plastic material, providing excellent support and protection. It is commonly used on the shoe upper to enhance structure and support.
How to Identify Genuine Leather vs. Synthetic Leather:
is irregular in shape, with varying thickness and some natural defects. It is smooth but not perfectly even, and its surface typically has pores and patterns. has uniform thickness and smooth surfaces with no natural defects, and no pores or patterns.
Genuine leather has irregular pores that are deep and slightly inclined, while synthetic leather has uniform, shallow, and vertical pores. The fiber structure of genuine leather is unique with varying thickness, whereas synthetic leather is typically uniform with a plastic film surface.
Genuine leather is highly absorbent, while synthetic leather is not.
Genuine leather has excellent elasticity and tensile strength, while synthetic leather lacks these qualities.
If you blow air through the back of genuine leather, it will prevent air from passing through, showing its "reverse performance." Genuine leather is also good for insulation while allowing breathability.
The surface of genuine leather has uneven patterns and pores, and the backside shows animal fibers. When scratched with a fingernail, leather fibers will rise, creating a soft feel. Synthetic leather lacks this characteristic.
Genuine leather is elastic and will naturally wrinkle when bent, with uneven folds forming. Synthetic leather tends to be uniform in the crease lines.
Genuine leather has a strong, natural leather scent, while synthetic leather often has a plastic smell.
When burned, genuine leather smells like burnt hair and produces brittle ash, whereas synthetic leather burns with a strong flame, producing a plastic smell and sticky residue that solidifies into a block when cooled.